worsted spun vs woolen spun

The parallel alignment and uniform length of fibers prepared in a worsted-style also means that less fiber ends stick out in the yarn, making the bloom much less pronounced in these yarns when compared to woolen-spun yarns. That little strand of silk-mohair yarn is important, because the mohair fibers catch on each other and lend stability to the fabric. Just like cotton worsted is not always better than woolen. Worsted spun is smooth, while woolen spun is a little more rustic. To aid you in making an informed choice when choosing between woolen-spun and worsted-spun yarns for your future projects, below is a general guide to the kinds of fabrics you can achieve with either kind. Want a refresher on the difference between worsted-spun and woolen spun yarns? Both woolen and worsted spinning methods make beautiful yarns. The yarn is spun using the woolen process. The photos were such a vivid illustration of the difference between these two types of drafting and their results for your knitting. This helped me understand the difference and will help me make better choices when picking a yarn to knit certain patterns. Because our yarns are washed in the hand-dying process some blooming has already occurred. Knit using the same needles and in the same style that youll be knitting the garment (i.e., flat or in the round). But its so difficult to choose between the two Tom Hardys. However, because commercial spinning techniques necessarily developed out of hand spinning techniques, the terms described here may also be familiar to our hand spinning friends or applicable to those interested in handspinning. Great article! www.briggsandlittle.com, Content: 100% American wool Put-Up: 140yd [128 m]/134 oz [50 g] Construction: 2-ply Care: Handwash; dry flat Recommended Gauge: 1720 sts = 4 (10 cm) on sizes 79 (4.55.5 mm) needles, Shelter is a medium-weight yarn that varies in gauge, working differently and beautifully on small to large needles. February 2022 Heres a thread on Ravelry discussing it: https://www.ravelry.com/discuss/techniques/3930171/1-25, Really impressed by the author. Two different systems are followed in wool processing, the woolen system, and the worsted system. Last fall when I traveled to the Taos Wool Festival, I discovered a remarkable cormo yarn from Elsa Wool Company. Other linen yarns are wet spun linen and dry spun linen. And you explained the difference between woolen vs worsted very well!! Put up refers to what sort of shape/size bundle the yarn is in. Even taking in account the difference of color and fiber blend, they are two different yarns. Thanks! Looking at a strand, I can start seeing variation. Worsted Spun requires a very different fibre preparation, and spinning technique. Now that you know about how woolen and worsted yarns behave in knitted fabric, youll be able to choose the perfect pattern to complement your new yarn love. This has just lit a light bulb in my head. I feel like I can make better yarn/pattern matches and explain these variables to others who want me to knit for them and their only concern is color. The table below lists some of their properties: Woolen spun yarn is known to be light as air, durable, warm and lofty. I was moving too quickly on that one, clearly. Thanks. The fiber is compressed and smoothed, and air is squeezed out as the twist is applied to the fiber. This video is a brief overview of some different spinning techniques I've learned to spin worsted or woolen yarn and how that affects the outcome of your yar. April 2019 An alternative to spinning top worsted is to spin it semi worsted. Hairs are aligned to be parallel, instead of being rolled up to perpendicular to the direction of the yarn. Semi worsted will give you more fluff to . The Classic British Wool yarn line is available in four thicknesses and fifteen heathered colorways. In tropical-weight worsteds, the use of tightly spun, straightened wool combined with a looser weave permits air to flow through the fabric. Those air pockets, combined with the jumbled state of the fibers, also make woolen-spun yarns amazingly adaptable to a wide range of needle sizes and gauges. (Theres a method to this madness, we promise!). In the videos below, I'm using hand carded alpaca. Woolen spun yarns are in the production of sweaters, carpets, tweeds. Thank you! There is a lot of technical information about the differences between woolen spun and worsted spun yarn, which you can read about here on the MDK blog. September 2014 There are all sorts of reasons you might want to use a yarn thats different from what the designer recommends. February 2018 We also use third-party cookies that help us analyze and understand how you use this website. Trust me, they r super different in thickness. February 2016 Oh great now Im going to spend all day weeping for Wuthering Heights Tom Hardy and wondering what kind of yarn he was. Ill never look at yarn the same way again! Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Holland & Sherry98% SUPER 100'S WORSTED 2% LYCRA 2.46 YDS X 62" 159648 at the best online prices at eBay! Woolen yarn is less durable as compared to worsted yarn which may last longer. I learned about yarn substitution the hard way. June 2013 lovely wool yarn selection from Jagger Spun. Thats because yarn weight is one of the key elements that affects the gauge of your knitting. That meant the hat could be knit at a much looser gauge than I would normally use for a fingering + lace combo. June 2019 One other point about worsted vs. semi-worsted. Its easier to just add more rows than to recalculate the width of a garment. Worsted style spinning got me 183 yds from 4 oz. Because the yarn is smoother than woolen yarn, it will be less itchy when worn next to the skin, provided the fibers are not too coarse for comfort. This blooming also has the effect of softening and blending the appearance of your stitches rather like moss growing on a forest floor, in the words of Clara Parkes. January 2019 Yarn stashes are nice, but at some point, I become a yarn collector instead of a knitter if I never get projects done due to errors in purchases. The most important thing when choosing a yarn substitute is to pick a new yarn that is approximately the same thickness, or weight, as the recommended yarn. Dye baths are created using a precise calibration of dye, temperature, and water flow to protect the lofty, softness of the wool and to ensure the colors are repeatable with every new dye lot. To read the applicable privacy policy, please. This website uses cookies to improve your experience while you navigate through the website. Before you go subbing in your new yarn, though, think about the following issues. Have you ever pet a puppy in that super soft spot at the base of its ears? On the other hand, the woolen fabrics hold creases and shape well and are more durable. Appreciate the info. Native Twist is available in twenty-nine bold, earthy, and jewel-toned solid colorways. It's then spun with the twist entering the drafting zone in a long draw technique. Thanks. Absolutely excellent article and the illustrations are superb and helpful. By clicking Accept, you consent to the use of ALL the cookies. May 2018 Going to send people to this. May 2015 I choose to support local and indie yarners and dont mind spending big $$ on yarn if I understand it will fit the intended project. Ill choose a woolen spun yarn. You can write a comment on the yarns Ravelry page suggesting that drafting info be added. Ive wondered lately why some yarn I loved in my LYS seemed perfect, but when swatched, especially in garter stitch, looked so shiny, something I didnt want. Please refer to Blacker Yarns blog for an explanation: https://www.thenaturalfibre.co.uk/blog/woollen-and-worsted-spun-yarns-thoughts-wovember#:~:text=A%20woollen%20spun%20yarn%20will,high%20proportion%20of%20short%20fibre. Because filaments wrap the worsted core, the yarn is noticeably less uneven and has fewer defects than worsted yarns. December 2021 The difference between worsted-spun and woolen-spun yarns lies in how the fiber is handled before the actual spinning. So how do you spin yarn to be either worsted or woolen? You can also go to the (Ravelry link) yarn ideas tab to see what yarns other people have substituted. November 2018 As such, each stitch worked from a worsted-spun yarn renders individually, crisply, and vividly, making yarns spun in this style suitable for cables and showing textural knitting to maximum advantage. February 2019 I won't give you all the details, but before finishing there was already a significant difference in diameter; the worsted (dark) measured as 17 WPI, while the woolen (light) measured as 12 WPI. Im usually a picker, and I never pull from the center of a ball. Any amount of twist, be it a lot or a little, is essential for creating knittable yarn. Yarns which Stretch The combed wool is then sent through a pin drafter several times, resulting in the wool sliver becoming progressively thinner with each pass through the machine. That would be worsted-style shopping. Wool fabrics can be classified by their production technology the worsted and woolen one. The way a yarn is spun - worsted vs. woolen - also determines how much fiber is used per yard. Its important to know WPI because there is room for variation within each of the yarn weight categories. You can see the stitches in the worsted swatches just show up. September 2021 I have been knitting for almost 50 years and have never understood what worsted yarn was all about. When you touch worsted yarn, it tends to feel heavier and very even, and it will be shiny if the fibers in the yarn are inclined that way. Worsted is about both how you spin and how you (or your supplier) prep. December 2022 I am going to print this and use it, because this made me feel empowered by actual knowledge - my yarn purchases may take a bit longer as I review all of the yarns characteristics, but I have a much better sense of what I am doing! Use top to spin semi worsted. Thank you!!! Wonderful study! Worsted yarns are spun with all the fibers aligned, making a smooth and dense yarn with more sheen and drape. In the production of Quarry, which was inspired by unspun yarns, we skip the process of spinning the individual plies of yarn and instead nestle together three strands of roping drawn out to the right thickness, before gently twisting those strands together in a mock twist. Twist is then inserted only as the fibers exit the draft zone, not concurrently as in our woolen-spun yarns. If you're looking for something that's super warm but light, a woolen spun may be better. FO's I also find that woollen spun yarns need a lot of work to be held in place to create even floats, whereas worsted spun yarns naturally feed through my hands and create an even tension almost by themselves. Ive used it on a lot of projects since then. Hours: Mon-Fri from 9am-4pm MT October 2018 Block it the same way you plan to block the finished knit item, and set it somewhere safe to dry. You then spin using a long draw technique that maintains that rolled structure. March 2020 March 2021 AC Business Ventures LLC, DBA Nitro Knitters. The indie Dyer might know how their base is spun if one is buying direct but maybe a LYS owner might not. Contains spam, fake content or potential malware, Free Resin Jewelry Video: Yupo Paper, Alcohol Inks, and Resin, Knitting-Themed Artists We Love: Inspiration from Fiber & Needles, Celebrating Beadwork Artists on International Womens Day. You've got the woolen spun vs worsted spun reversed. Chickens I am currently knitting with Empire and wondered what made me love it so much more than (another lovely but unnamed) yarn of the same gauge. So what difference does it make, why bother to think about spinning technique and processing type before spinning? Theyre the same weight, but theyre not made the same way. I made a sweater that is just too heavy and was hoping to be able to make it in a lighter weight yarn. Brilliant. When I first started knitting, I bought a Debbie Bliss magazine that had this adorable, lightweight top for summer. Our Barrett Wool Co. Wisconsin Woolen Spun Yarns are about as close to homespun as we can get. This approach makes for a lofty, lightweight yarn that traps warmth. Ive got the same question as an earlier commenter one leg of my knit stitches is tighter than the other. September 2017 These cookies will be stored in your browser only with your consent. This action will also remove this member from your connections and send a report to the site admin. Yours has been my favorite series to date Im learning so much and feel like I can make better choices! The term itself comes from the English town of Worstead in Norfolk England. is traditionally spun from carded rolags (this was the job small children carried out). . Case in point, hobby lobbys I love this yarn and their soft secret are both worsted, but one is 4 ply and the other 3 ply. Spinning The best article ever on this subject. To really make sure you stand the best chance of getting the right gauge, you need to check your new yarns put up and/or WPI. 5 sts / inch on size US 7. Dogs Well, the differences between woolens and worsted begin at the carding stage. Compared to woolens, worsted wool fabrics are brushed in two directions with special brushes. I think Ill need to read it over a few times to really get it, because there is so much information. Long draw is for making a woolen-spun yarn. You also have the option to opt-out of these cookies. November 2014 In this installment of our Foundations series, we explain the differences between how our woolen-spun and worsted-spun yarn families are produced, as well as describe the different kinds of fabrics one can achieve with either kind of yarn. Some have a naturally rougher surface. Thank you for this lucid explanation and the swatches to illustrate it. What you do need is to know what youre doing if you plan to change things up. November 2022 Woolen yarns are spun with the fibers going every which way. Great article and most helpful. This was the only blog with a long windup that was not only worth the read but also genuinely funny rather than trying too hard. Youve just figured out your yarns WPI. Many commercial yarns are spun with the worsted style. Perhaps youve got a fiber allergy and need to switch to a yarn that wont irritate your skin. When dyed the same color, woolen and worsted drafted yarns wont look the same. Worsted wools are slick when woven, woolen wools are knitted, crocheted, or woven into softer, fluffier fabric, or fulled fabric. June 2021 Its like choosing between the cleaned-up, slicked-back Tom Hardy in Legend or the grungy Tom Hardy in Mad Max: Fury Road. Worsted-spun knitted fabrics are super-soft, incredibly versatile knits that are used for baby clothes, underwear, t-shirts and sportswear, leggings, dresses and other light-weight knitwear. Flywheel is light and airy and lends itself well to both lace projects and warm, cozy sweaters. Ideally, you want to get accurate stitch and row gauge. This is the fun part about being a knitter who knows their yarn; its all up to you. So the semi-worsted spinning gets you more yardage since the yarn is less . August 2020 So much yarn, so many choices the Lust Factor will now have a bit more knowledge backing it up! Heres what woolen and worsted mean to your knitted sweaters and accessories. $43.99 + $10 . Sometimes, those individual strings are then twisted together to form a stronger, denser yarn. The difference in these two yarns are mainly due to two factors; (1) the nature or class of wool used; and (2) the method of preparing and spinning the fibres into yarn. Thanks for explaining the difference, it's interesting to see those subtle contrasts between the stitching! worsted-spun. April 2021 Thank you Jagger Spun for the information! Over at Into the Whirled, the people come from all directions into the booth in a hullabaloo of shopping, woolen style. Put up is the way your yarn has been bundled up. While the definitions of woollen and worsted yarns can be debated, each style of yarn has a very distinct physical appearance when knitted, crocheted, or woven into cloth. Please confirm you want to block this member. Maybe youre trying to use up some of your stash. Can you spot the other difference? 100% Targhee-Columbia wool. Durability, warmth and weight. February 2021 Miss Babs has an orderly line. There are myriad ways to prepare and spin fleece and fiber into yarn. How a yarn looks also depends on (did you read my last article?) Also receive daily new post notifications, Superfun Giveaway: Celebrate BIPOC Designers, https://www.ravelry.com/discuss/techniques/3930171/1-25, https://garmentmerchendising.com/category/fiber/, https://www.thenaturalfibre.co.uk/blog/woollen-and-worsted-spun-yarns-thoughts-wovember#:~:text=A%20woollen%20spun%20yarn%20will,high%20proportion%20of%20short%20fibre. Shop Talk Heres why: when the fibers in the yarn irregular in length and nestled together in every which way are soaked in water during the blocking process, they get the chance to relax, and then they readjust and mingle with each other even more as they dry, creating a solid and cohesive piece of fabric. Try to get your WPI to match as closely as possible to avoid that problem. It's then spun with the twist entering the drafting zone in a long draw technique. When this "worsted spun" yarn is woven it produces fabric with these qualities unlike the more common woolen-spun wool yarns available to handweavers. Closed Saturdays, Sundays and US Holidays, 2015- 2023 Lunatic Fringe Yarns - All Rights Reserved Perfect. Ah, you're right, thank you! Thank you for a well written and useful article. Does this happen with all yarns? This bulky weight blend of 80% acrylic and 20% wool offers the triple crown yarn benefits: it's machine washable and dryable, has the warmth and comfort of wool, and works up quickly. We consider it one of the finest worsted weight yarns out there. As such, for our woolen-spun yarns, the strands of roping are simply loaded on a spinning frame, where they are concurrently drafted, twisted, and wound onto bobbins to become singles for plying. Your email address will not be published. The woolen singles were a little thicker and less consistent, so this isn't surprising. All Rights Reserved. Wool is readied by washing (lanolin is the by-product), carding, sometimes combing, then spinning. 28 minutes. 140 yards/50 g. $15.50 each. You are however spinning long draw, which is a more woolen type of draft and will be trapping more air in the yarn. Airy and soft, but fragile (because of the shorter staple and looser twist?). Bees Left: woolen spun yarn | Right: worsted-spun yarn b) Single ply, 2-ply, 4-ply, and 8-ply. www.brooklyntweed.com, Content: 100% Clun Forest wool Put-Up: 185yd [169 m]/3.8 oz [107 g] Construction: 3-ply Care: Handwash with low agitation; dry flat Recommended Gauge: 18 sts = 4 (10 cm) on size 7 (4.5 mm) needles, Solitude Wool hand-picks its fleece from small U.S. farms and then has yarn spun at different mills around the country. Thanks for the clear and concise approach I get it now! This cookie is set by GDPR Cookie Consent plugin. Rudy Amann was mentored in handspinning by Priscilla Gibson-Roberts. Nature Spun Worsted. March 2014 But if the pattern calls for yarn from an indie dyer or one of the smaller manufacturers, it can be pretty hit or miss (I just checked for several of my favorites that I've used in designs this year, and nothing). If your gauge is too loose (that is, fewer stitches per inch than it should have), try going down a needle size. March 2015 If you want knife-edge stitch definition, go for a worsted drafted yarn. The worsted yarn will be a little bit stronger whereas the woolen yarn will break a little bit easier. Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment. Be sure to use the stitch indicated in the pattern when it tells you how gauge was measured. This is because the fibers (compressed together in all directions, without combing) adhere more strongly to each other, This is a lightweight fabric, and, especially when knitted using Fair Isle technique, will long outlast a worsted spun garment. Single-ply yarns are, to put it mildly, gloriously soft. Jillian Moreno spins, knits and weaves just so she can touch all of the fibers. It is mandatory to procure user consent prior to running these cookies on your website. No need to go to the gym if you do an hours wool combing! A quick aside to address the words we use here. Worsted yarns are spun with all the fibers aligned, making a smooth and dense yarn with more sheen and drape. October 2021 September 2019 Thank you for explaining what it actually means. The technical storage or access is necessary for the legitimate purpose of storing preferences that are not requested by the subscriber or user. January 2023 You absolutely do not have to use the same yarn recommended by the designer for a pattern. For example, a yarn labeled 2/fine (often known as fingering or sock weight) can have a WPI of anywhere from 12-18. It resulted in a hat that was light as a cloud but still structurally sound and very warm. Work your swatch until the swatch is about 4 long, and then bind off. They are also stronger, more durable, and less prone to pilling. Theres also Wuthering Heights Tom Hardy, just saying. God Bless. yarn weight is one of the key elements that affects the gauge, Shoes for Showing Off Handknit Socks: Six Suggestions. What Ply is Worsted Weight Yarn? April 2022 US 6 - 8 or 4 - 5mm. Although there is broad agreement about the extremes of woolen and worsted spinning, no firm consensus exists on what precisely defines the vast middle. December 2018 This will save me a lot of headache as well as trial and error. There is a great site called yarnsub which compares most if not all of these elements and suggests alternatives. Woollen spun woven fabrics are thicker and heavier and used mostly for outerwear. They are both delightful, yet different. Because woolen-spun yarns retain lots of air pockets during the production process, they knit up into very insulating and warm garments.

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